Installation guide · version 6.2
Installing Solskifer
How to install solar roof tiles in laminated toughened glass — with detail drawings following the Byggforsk principle: every critical junction as its own section drawing with full layer build-up, material coding and dimensions.
Download (PDF, in Norwegian) →D1 Roof build-up · D3 Eaves · D4 Ridge · D5 Verge · D6 Valley · D7 Bracket and fixing · D8 Snow guard. The batten spacing (D2) applies to the whole roof surface.
Safety first
Solskifer is an electrical installation on the roof. Read this before work starts.
Live in daylight
Terminate every string
- All electrical connections, wiring runs and the inverter are connected by a certified / registered electrician.
- Carry out the short-circuit test and all other required tests in accordance with NEK 400.
- An installation can carry several kW of power and several hundred volts DC — use only equipment approved for this.
- Glass is strong, but handle it with care. Avoid impacts on edges and corners.
Under Forskrift om elektrisk utstyr § 21 (the Norwegian regulation on electrical equipment), we are obliged to inform you that installation equipment intended to form part of a fixed electrical installation must be installed by a registered installation business.
Preparation and prerequisites
The Solskifer design provides a good seal, and can therefore be installed on a simplified underlay.
Roof coverings vary in how well they seal against snow and driving rain. The Solskifer design provides a good seal, which makes it possible to install on a simplified underlay. Nevertheless, follow the instructions on underlay and batten spacing.
- The recommended minimum roof pitch is 15°. Solskifer should not be laid below 15°.
- In particularly weather-exposed areas: use a load-bearing underlay.
- For design and underlay, Byggforskserien NBI 544.102 «Tekking med skifer» (the Norwegian building-research design guide on slate roofing) is recommended.
Responsibility
Roof build-up
Solskifer is laid on a system of underlay, counter battens and battens — built to ventilate and drain.
- 1Solskifer panel — 2 × 4 mm laminated toughened glass (8 mm)
- 2Bracket on rail, hooked over the batten
- 3Batten 36 × 48 mm, cc 37,5 cm (36 × 73 in severe-weather areas)
- 4Counter batten 36 × 48 mm, cc 0,6 m — ventilation gap
- 5Roofing underlay / wind barrier (load-bearing in severe-weather areas)
- 6Rafter — load-bearing structure
The panel is 834,4 mm tall on cc 37,5 cm battens — the roof is always covered in two layers, and three layers at the shoulders. The ventilation gap draws air in at the eaves and out at the ridge, keeping the underlay dry.
The build-up provides good ventilation between the underlay and the Solskifer roof, and allows drainage of any precipitation and condensation that reaches the underlay. Air intake and outlet at the eaves, ridge and gable must be sufficient for the structure as a whole.
Underlay
Both vapour-permeable and vapour-tight underlays are suitable. The type determines how the ventilation is arranged. Choose a load-bearing underlay in severe-weather areas.
Roof function
Keep the roof surface as cold as possible, so that snow does not melt from heat escaping from inside. A cold Solskifer roof also benefits energy production.
Counter battens and battens
Counter batten 36 × 48 mm recommended (minimum 23 × 36) — cc 0,6 m. Batten 36 × 48 mm; 36 × 73 mm where the counter-batten spacing exceeds 60 cm, or in severe-weather areas.
Penetrations
Batten spacing
The batten spacing is cc 37,5 cm. It can be adjusted — but one panel must never cover solar cells in the panel in the row below.
Figure 1: battens at cc 37,5 cm from the ridge, adjustment at the top against the flashing. Figure 2: start a minimum of 55 mm from the ridge, then cc 37,5 cm downwards with adjustment at the bottom. The outer edge of the bottom batten equals the position you want for the eaves flashing.
How it is built up
- 1Build up the first batten (36 × 48) with a 5 mm thick piece of counter batten. Do not use a thicker batten — the bracket will not fit (only 40 mm internally).
- 2The outer edge of the bottom batten equals the position you want for the eaves flashing.
- 3Continue battening at cc 37,5 cm, with adjustment at the top (figure 1).
- 4Alternatively, start the battening a minimum of 55 mm from the ridge, then cc 37,5 cm downwards with adjustment at the bottom (figure 2).
Packer — do not increase the batten thickness
Details and junctions
Eaves, ridge, verge, valley and snow guard — the points where precision decides the result.
- 1Solskifer foot panel — hangs on the bottom batten
- 2First batten 36 × 48 mm on a 5 mm packer
- 3Eaves flashing — laid up to the top edge of the first batten
- 4Counter batten 36 × 48 mm — ventilation gap, open at the eaves
- 5Roofing underlay / wind barrier — carried out over the eaves edge
- 6Rafter
- 7Gutter — outside the Solskifer supply (sheet-metal work)
The outer edge of the bottom batten determines the position of the eaves flashing. The flashing can be split into a standard flashing plus an adjustment flashing. The ventilation gap between flashing and panel lets air in under the whole roof surface.
In many cases it is a good solution to raise the solar roof as close to the ridge as possible. This gives a tidy start at the bottom and a good ridge solution — and as a bonus protects the solar cells from accidental damage when a ladder is used at the eaves.
- 1Ridge capping / ridge flashing — choose a solution with sufficient ventilation out
- 2Solskifer ridge tile (half panel) — clip glued under the lower end
- 3Overlap of up to 78 mm — never over solar cells
- 4Ventilation out at the ridge — the counter battens stop short of the ridge
- 5Top batten — start at the ridge or ≥ 55 mm from the ridge
- 6Roofing underlay — carried tight to the ridge, ventilation takes place above it
Raise the roof as close to the ridge as possible: a clean start at the bottom, a good ridge solution — and as a bonus the solar cells are protected from accidental damage when a ladder is used at the eaves. The clip on the ridge tile is pushed between the panels in the row below before the bracket is screwed down.
- 1Solskifer panel — the edge towards the verge is kept free of solar cells
- 2Top board — top edge 40 mm above the battens
- 3Verge board (bargeboard)
- 4Batten 36 × 48 mm — runs tight to the gable
- 5Counter batten on the gable rafter
- 6Roofing underlay — terminated at the verge
- 7Gable rafter
Choose a solution where the top board does not cover the solar cells in the Solskifer. Top corners out towards the verge are aligned at the same angle as the rest of the Solskifer roof, with guide clips that grip around the panel below before screwing.
- 1Whole Solskifer panels — laid in towards the gutter
- 2Adaptation plate in plastic-aluminium composite — cut against the gutter; can be drilled and screwed with ordinary carpentry tools
- 3Valley / valley-gutter flashing with upstand — sheet-metal work
- 4Direction of fall — water collects in the gutter
The adaptation plates are not glass and produce no power — they complete the roof covering in towards the gutter. The gutter and its flashings are designed and installed by a tinsmith (sheet-metal worker).
- 1Solskifer panel — first row above the snow guard: trim a little off the rubber strip under the panels
- 2GG-11 grating rail
- 3Snow guard bracket (Lobas S-606) — cc 750 mm, placed in panel joints
- 4Thin rubber gasket where the bracket is in contact with glass
- 5Fixing board 28 × 120 mm — 18 cm above the batten, top edge to top edge
- 6Batten 36 × 48 mm
The brackets are placed in the panel joints, roughly directly above the external wall. Place a thin rubber gasket wherever the bracket touches the glass.
The material
Solskifer is laminated from two layers of 4 mm toughened glass with embedded solar cells.
The exposure of 372,5 mm equals both the batten spacing (cc 37,5 cm) and the roof-width module (0,375 m) — which is why the panels are laid in a nested diamond pattern. The upper part is covered by the row above and has no solar cells.
Toughened, laminated glass is very strong, but should be handled with care. Avoid contact with sharp or hard objects, especially against the panel’s edges and corners.
Glass never directly against metal
Adaptations
Dummy and adaptation panels are not made of glass, but of a plastic-aluminium composite material that can be cut, drilled and screwed with ordinary carpentry tools.
Bracket and fixing
The brackets slide onto the rail on the back of the panel and are adjusted as wide as possible — without conflicting with the counter battens.
- 1Solskifer panel — 2 × 4 mm laminated toughened glass
- 2Rail (support profile) on the back of the panel
- 3Bracket 60 mm — slides onto the rail, 40 mm internal
- 4Rubber gasket against the glass
- 5A4 stainless (acid-proof) screw 5 × 45 mm into the batten
- 6Batten 36 × 48 mm on counter batten
Glass must never be in direct contact with screws, washers or other metal — with the exception of flashings laid on or directly beneath the Solskifer roof. Panels and edge plates in the edge zones are screwed down as you go. An extra-long bit holder, or an angled one, makes the screwing easier.
- Panels and edge plates in the edge zones are screwed down.
- In edge zones, screw as you go using 60 mm brackets with holes, fixed to the batten with a 5 × 45 mm A4 stainless (acid-proof) screw.
- An extra-long bit holder, or an angled one, makes the screwing easier.
The top row of half panels (ridge tiles) has a clip glued under the lower end. Push the clip between the panels in the row below before the 60 mm bracket is screwed to the batten. Top corners out towards the valley gutter/verge are aligned at the same angle as the rest of the Solskifer roof, with guide clips that grip around the panel below before screwing.
Laying Solskifer
Hang the foot panels along the bottom batten, then lay row by row — or diagonally at 45°.
- 1Foot panel — hung along the bottom batten, first
- 2Whole panels — row by row upwards, or diagonally at 45°
- 3Ridge tile (half panel) with glued-on clip — pushed between the panels in the row below
- 4Control line (square line) — e.g. every 75, 150, 225 or 300 cm
Connect the cables as you go and cable-tie the connections to a batten, up off the underlay. The supply lines must be in place before laying starts.
The sequence
- 1Mark out a square line where the edge of the foot panel will sit, and carry it up the whole roof surface.
- 2Repeat the line as often as you need to stay in control — e.g. every 75, 150, 225 or 300 cm.
- 3Hang the foot panels along the bottom batten.
- 4Lay Solskifer row by row (or diagonally at 45°).
- 5Connect the cables as you go and cable-tie the connections to a batten, up off the underlay.
Supply lines first
Roof width and distribution
Aim for a roof width matched to the nominal dimensions. Always start at the centre and mark cc 37,5 cm out to each side.
Distribution principle: centre line, whole panels out to each side, remainder towards the valley gutter/flashing with overlap.
Worked examples
Electrical
Each panel is connected in series with the previous and the next. The direct current is collected in strings and led to the inverter.
- 1Solskifer panel with + and − (MC4 Stäubli — never “compatible” copies)
- 2Series connection — cables and connectors are cable-tied to battens, kept away from the underlay and moisture
- 3String to the inverter — the roof surface is usually divided into two or more strings
- 4Inverter DC → 230 V AC — positioning and connection by a certified electrician
All wiring is live as long as light reaches the panel. Use rubber end plugs when terminating a string, isolate + and − from each other, and test in accordance with NEK 400.
- Follow the agreed plan for the wiring runs.
- Each panel is connected in series with the previous/next. Fix the connections to battens, away from the underlay and moisture.
- Use only MC4 Stäubli — not MC4 plugs from other manufacturers, even if they are claimed to be “compatible”.
- The roof surface is usually divided into two or more strings. The voltage can be measured via the wires of each string.
Inverter
Direct current from the Solskifer roof is collected and led to an inverter that converts it to 230 V alternating current. Consult an electrician on a sensible location. Always use a certified electrician for connecting wiring and the inverter.
Remember when terminating
Roof access and completion
Once a panel is properly fitted you can walk on it — but take care.
- Make sure your shoes are clean, with no stones or grit stuck in the soles.
- Try to step directly over where the brackets sit (roughly the vertical centre line of the panel).
- Even so, avoid unnecessary traffic over the panels.
Flashing work and external solutions
Finally
References and responsibility
- This guide does not cover the installation of the underlay/gutters or details beyond the Solskifer roof itself. Always follow the current recommendations from SINTEF and the latest NEK / TEK.
- All electrical connections and wiring runs are made in consultation with the responsible electrician.
- Not every installation option is shown in this guide. The installer is responsible for sound installation.
This guide applies only to the installation of Solskifer roof slates supplied by Solskifer AS.
Download the installation guide (PDF, in Norwegian) →